Tuesday June 9 2009 3:29 pm
PROJECT: Vegetarian French Onion Soup
I love French onion soup. It’s been quite awhile since I had a real one, but I remember it, and it was gooood. Lately I’ve been longing for it, and looking up various onion soup recipes in an attempt to find (or develop) a great one. Here are some rules I’ve observed as factors in French Onion Soup appreciation:
1) Onions MUST be caramelized before they are added to the soup.
2) Selection of cheese and how it’s handled are as important as how the onions are handled.
3) Beef stock is the ONLY way to go; chicken, fish, and vegetable stock are useless.
…which leads me to my problem. I don’t do beef (or chicken, for that matter), so how can I pretend to make a real French onion soup? Beef stock isn’t just an excuse to call this a “soup,” it’s the foundation of the flavor of the soup. So whatever I do, it has to create a really tenacious, flavorful, beeflike stock.
An ordinary pretending-to-be-chicken stock simply won’t do for this. It has to be darker and meatier. I found a suggestion somewhere for a roasted vegetable stock, and I think that’s the way we’ll have to go. It needs to be oily and salty and sit mostly on the middle-back of the tongue. PROJECT: Vegetarian French Onion Soup will commence Thursday night, when I get my weekly delivery from Spud and will have the necessary vegetable ingredients. Here’s my gameplan:
Add to water UNROASTED:
Carrots
Celery
Fresh parsley
Fresh thyme
Dry sherry
Bay leaf
ROAST and add to water:
Crimini mushrooms (may also try a few portabellos)
Eggplant
Onion
Garlic
Olive oil
And when the stock’s prepared:
1) Toast a slice of some small baguette or peasant-style bread.
2) Caramelize the onions (I’ll have red and white).
3) Place ample amounts of onion over bread in onion-soup crock (I have one); add stock; add cheese; bake for 5-10 minutes.
I bought a variety of swiss-style cheeses from Whole Foods yesterday, including a Gruyere, an Appenzeller, a Tete de Moine, and an Emmentaler; I’m going to see which ones will go best with the onions. I’ve bought a LOT of onions and I’m planning to do the stock and then add additional vegetables to the stock, or other spices or flavors, until I get it right…
I’ll keep you up to date as I determine what works and what doesn’t in this experiment. Stay tuned!
(If you’re looking for some serious F.O.S. review power, check out Ron Schnell’s perfectly amazing French Onion Soup Page, where he travels around (mostly in the U.S.) tasting various French onion soups and seeking the perfect one.

