Friday June 26 2009 9:37 am
French onion soup: finis!

As promised, here’s the almost vegetarian French onion soup recipe!
I started off with this Basic Vegetable Stock, which I let cook on the stove for a few hours:
3 Carrots (chopped)
2 Celery stalks (chopped)
1/2 cup Green Onions (as I was saving the white ones for the soup itself)
1/3 cup Parsley
3/4 cup dry Sherry
1 Bay leaf
a bouquet (about 8 sprigs) of Thyme
1 Tbsp. Peppercorns
1 Tbsp. Butter
About three quarts of water
While that was bubbling away on the stove, I roasted in a large casserole dish at 450° F:
1 medium Eggplant (cubed)
a dozen Cherry Tomatoes (each cut in half; they don’t have to be cherry tomatoes, it’s just what I had on hand)
a dash of Smokey-flavored Salt
1 Tbsp. Olive oil (just enough to coat the vegetables)
When the roasting vegetables had started to get brownish, I removed them from the oven. I removed the carrots and other vegetables from the stock pot, and added the roasted vegetables to it. The stock had already been a nice tan-ish color, but once I added the roasted vegetables, it started to get really dark. I let it go for awhile (probably an hour) and then came back to taste it. It was at this point that I took a page from one of my favorite Roald Dahl books (and that’s quite a competition!), and started moving around my kitchen, opening up my cupboards and pulling things out at random to see what I had that could go into it. It was clearly lacking something.
I added some spices (Herbs de Provençe, Basil, and a few Cloves), a bit more salt, and then the thing which made it taste almost-perfect but which also makes it not totally vegetarian: about two tablespoons of Worcestershire Sauce. It gave it a zing, a bite, and a lot of character, while the roasted vegetables gave it more substance than a regular vegetable broth generally has.
Full of hope that I’d created a good enough stock, I started in on the vegetables. First, I cooked the onions…

and then I cooked them some more…

And then finally started the actual assembly process: a slice of bread into the onion soup crock, then some of the onions, then the broth, and finally, about 3/4 of a cup of grated swiss cheese (I decided on a mixture of Gruyere, Emmentaler, Appenzeller) to completely cover the top. I baked it for just over 10 minutes at 450° F. Here’s the finished product, just prior to me digging in:

All in all, it was delicious, if I do say so myself. Was it beef stocky enough? Probably not. And I failed in my quest to make a totally vegetarian stock. On the other hand, it was extremely flavorful and added much to the soup that would not have been there if I’d gone with your average thin veggie stock. The butter gave the stock an oiliness and creaminess that was extremely appealing; the roasted eggplant made it seem meatier. It was an awful lot of work just to get to a bowl of onion soup, though, so I’d say if you’re going to bother going through all this, you should definitely make a large batch of stock. Luckily, I have quite a bit left, so all I really have to do is buy some more onions, and I’ll be in onion soup for a week or two!*
*(I also used the stock for a veggie-version of pho, which, I gotta tell you, was near-heavenly. Stock, rice noodles, bean sprouts, sliced green onions, mint, cilantro, basil, lime, and Sriracha sauce all came together for a very good cause.)



